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    聽聽那冷雨_余光中

    時間:2017-06-21  來源:第九閱讀網  作者:余光中  有:人讀過該文章

    《聽聽那冷雨》

    余光中

    驚蟄一過,春寒加劇。先是料料峭峭,繼而雨季開始,時而淋淋漓漓,時而淅淅瀝瀝,天潮潮地濕濕,即連在夢里,也似乎有把傘撐著。而就憑一把傘,躲過一陣瀟瀟的冷雨,也躲不過整個雨季。連思想也都是潮潤潤的。每天回家,曲折穿過金門街到廈門街迷宮式的長巷短巷,雨里風里,走入霏霏令人更想入非非。想這樣子的臺北凄凄切切完全是黑白片的味道,想整個中國整部中國的歷史無非是一張黑白片子,片頭到片尾,一直是這樣下著雨的。這種感覺,不知道是不是從安東尼奧尼那里來的。不過那—塊土地是久違了,二十五年,四

    分之一的世紀,即使有雨,也隔著千山萬山,千傘萬傘。十五年,一切都斷了,只有氣候,只有氣象報告還牽連在一起,大寒流從那塊土地上彌天卷來,這種酷冷吾與古大陸分擔。不能撲進她懷里,被她的裙邊掃一掃也算是安慰孺慕之情吧。

    這樣想時,嚴寒里竟有一點溫暖的感覺了。這樣想時,他希望這些狹長的巷子永遠延伸下去,他的思路也可以延伸下去,不是金門街到廈門街,而是金門到廈門。他是廈門人,至少是廣義的廈門人,二十年來,不住在廈門,住在廈門街,算是嘲弄吧,也算是安慰。不過說到廣義,他同樣也是廣義的江南人,常州人,南京人,川娃兒,五陵少年。杏花春雨江南,那是他的少年時代了。再過半個月就是清明。安東尼奧尼的鏡頭搖過去,搖過去又搖過來。殘山剩水猶如是,皇天后土猶如是。紜紜黔首、紛紛黎民從北到南猶如是。那里面是中國嗎?那里面當然還是中國永遠是中國。只是杏花春雨已不再,牧童遙指已不再,劍門細雨渭城輕塵也都已不再。然則他日思夜夢的那片土地,究竟在哪里呢?

    在報紙的頭條標題里嗎?還是香港的謠言里?還是傅聰的黑鍵白鍵馬恩聰的跳弓撥弦?還是安東尼奧尼的鏡底勒馬洲的望中?還是呢,故宮博物院的壁頭和玻璃柜內,京戲的鑼鼓聲中太白和東坡的韻里?

    聽聽那冷雨_余光中

    杏花,春雨,江南。六個方塊字,或許那片土就在那里面。而無論赤縣也好神州也好中國也好,變來變去,只要倉頡的靈感不滅,美麗的中文不老,那形象那磁石一般的向心力當必然長在。因為一個方塊字是一個天地。太初有字,于是漢族的心靈他祖先的回憶和希望便有了寄托。譬如憑空寫一個“雨”字,點點滴滴,滂滂沱沱,淅淅瀝瀝,一切云情雨意,就宛然其中了。視覺上的這種美感,豈是什么rain也好pluie也好所能滿足?翻開一部《辭源》或《辭海》,金木水火土,各成世界,而一入“雨”部,古神州的天顏千變萬化,便悉在望中,美麗的霜雪云霞,駭人的雷電霹雹,展露的無非是神的好脾氣與壞脾氣,氣象臺百讀不厭門外漢百思不解的百科全書。

    聽聽,那冷雨。看看,那冷雨。嗅嗅聞聞,那冷雨,舔舔吧,那冷雨。雨在他的傘上這城市百萬人的傘上雨衣上屋上天線上,雨下在基隆港在防波堤海峽的船上,清明這季雨。雨是女性,應該最富于感性。雨氣空而迷幻,細細嗅嗅,清清爽爽新新,有一點點薄荷的香味,濃的時候,竟發出草和樹林之后特有的淡淡土腥氣,也許那竟是蚯蚓的蝸牛的腥氣吧,畢竟是驚蟄了啊。也許地上的地下的生命也許古中國層層疊疊的記憶皆蠢蠢而蠕,也許是植物的潛意識和夢緊,那腥氣。

    第三次去美國,在高高的丹佛他山居住了兩年。美國的西部,多山多沙漠,千里干旱,天,藍似安格羅薩克遜人的眼睛,地,紅如印第安人的肌膚,云,卻是罕見的白鳥,落基山簇簇耀目的雪峰上,很少飄云牽霧。一來高,二來干,三來森林線以上,杉柏也止步,中國詩詞里“蕩胸生層云”或是“商略黃昏雨”的意趣,是落基山上難睹的景象。落基山嶺之勝,在石,在雪。那些奇巖怪石,相疊互倚,砌一場驚心動魄的雕塑展覽,給太陽和千里的風看。那雪,白得虛虛幻幻,冷得清清醒醒,那股皚皚不絕一仰難盡的氣勢,壓得人呼吸困難,心寒眸酸。不過要領略“白云回望合,青露入看無”的境界,仍須來中國。臺灣濕度很高,最饒云氣氛題雨意迷離的情調。兩度夜宿溪頭,樹香沁鼻,宵寒襲肘,枕著潤碧濕翠蒼蒼交疊的山影和萬綴都歇的俱寂,仙人一樣睡去。山中一夜飽雨,次晨醒來,在旭日未升的原始幽靜中,沖著隔夜的寒氣,踏著滿地的斷柯折枝和仍在流瀉的細股雨水,一徑探入森林的秘密,曲曲彎彎,步上山去。溪頭的山,樹密霧濃,蓊郁的水氣從谷底冉冉升起,時稠時稀,蒸騰多姿,幻化無定,只能從霧破云開的空處,窺見乍現即隱的一峰半塹,要縱覽全貌,幾乎是不可能的。至少上山兩次,只能在白茫茫里和溪頭諸峰玩捉迷藏的游戲。回到臺北,世人問起,除了笑而不答心自問,故作神秘之外,實際的印象,也無非山在虛無之間罷了。云絳煙繞,山隱水迢的中國風景,由來予人宋畫的韻味。那天下也許是趙家的天下,那山水卻是米家的山水。而究竟,是米氏父子下筆像中國的山水,還是中國的山水上只像宋畫,恐怕是誰也說不清楚了吧?

    雨不但可嗅,可親,更可以聽。聽聽那冷雨。聽雨,只要不是石破天驚的臺風暴雨,在聽覺上總是一種美感。大陸上的秋天,無論是疏雨滴梧桐,或是驟雨打荷葉,聽去總有一點凄涼,凄清,凄楚,于今在島上回味,則在凄楚之外,再籠上一層凄迷了,饒你多少豪情俠氣,怕也經不起三番五次的風吹雨打。一打少年聽雨,紅燭昏沉。再打中年聽雨,客舟中江闊云低。三打白頭聽雨的僧廬下,這更是亡宋之痛,一顆敏感心靈的一生:樓上,江上,廟里,用冷冷的雨珠子串成。十年前,他曾在一場摧心折骨的鬼雨中迷失了自己。雨,該是一滴濕漓漓的靈魂,窗外在喊誰。

    雨打在樹上和瓦上,韻律都清脆可聽。尤其是鏗鏗敲在屋瓦上,那古老的音樂,屬于中國。王禹的黃岡,破如椽的大竹為屋瓦。據說住在竹樓上面,急雨聲如瀑布,密雪聲比碎玉,而無論鼓琴,詠詩,下棋,投壺,共鳴的效果都特別好。這樣豈不像住在竹和筒里面,任何細脆的聲響,怕都會加倍夸大,反而令人耳朵過敏吧。

    雨天的屋瓦,浮漾濕濕的流光,灰而溫柔,迎光則微明,背光則幽黯,對于視覺,是一種低沉的安慰。至于雨敲在鱗鱗千瓣的瓦上,由遠而近,輕輕重重輕輕,夾著一股股的細流沿瓦槽與屋檐潺潺瀉下,各種敲擊音與滑音密織成網,誰的千指百指在按摩耳輪。“下雨了”,溫柔的灰美人來了,她冰冰的纖手在屋頂拂弄著無數的黑鍵啊灰鍵,把晌午一下子奏成了黃昏。

    在古老的大陸上,千屋萬戶是如此。二十多年前,初來這島上,日式的瓦屋亦是如此。先是天黯了下來,城市像罩在一塊巨幅的毛玻璃里,陰影在戶內延長復加深。然后涼涼的水意彌漫在空間,風自每一個角落里旋起,感覺得到,每一個屋頂上呼吸沉重都覆著灰云。雨來了,最輕的敲打樂敲打這城市。蒼茫的屋頂,遠遠近近,一張張敲過去,古老的琴,那細細密密的節奏,單調里自有一種柔婉與親切,滴滴點點滴滴,似幻似真,若孩時在搖籃里,一曲耳熟的童謠搖搖欲睡,母親吟哦鼻音與喉音。或是在江南的澤國水鄉,一大筐綠油油的桑葉被嚙于千百頭蠶,細細瑣瑣屑屑,口器與口器咀咀嚼嚼。雨來了,雨來的時候瓦這幺說,一片瓦說千億片瓦說,說輕輕地奏吧沉沉地彈,徐徐地叩吧撻撻地打,間間歇歇敲一個雨季,即興演奏從驚蟄到清明,在零落的墳上冷冷奏挽歌,一片瓦吟千億片瓦吟。

    在舊式的古屋里聽雨,聽四月,霏霏不絕的黃梅雨,朝夕不斷,旬月綿延,濕黏黏的苔蘚從石階下一直侵到舌底,心底。到七月,聽臺風臺雨在古屋頂上一夜盲奏,千層海底的熱浪沸沸被狂風挾挾,掀翻整個太平洋只為向他的矮屋檐重重壓下,整個海在他的蝎殼上嘩嘩瀉過。不然便是雷雨夜,白煙一般的紗帳里聽羯鼓一通又一通,滔天的暴雨滂滂沛沛撲來,強勁的電琵琶忐忐忑忑忐忐忑忑,彈動屋瓦的驚悸騰騰欲掀起。不然便是斜斜的西北雨斜斜刷在窗玻璃上,鞭在墻上打在闊大的芭蕉葉上,一陣寒潮瀉過,秋意便彌濕舊式的庭院了。

    在舊式的古屋里聽雨,春雨綿綿聽到秋雨瀟瀟,從少年聽到中年,聽聽那冷雨。雨是一種單調而耐聽的音樂是室內樂是室外樂,戶內聽聽,戶外聽聽,冷冷,那音樂。雨是一種回憶的音樂,聽聽那冷雨,回憶江南的雨下得滿地是江湖下在橋上和船上,也下在四川在秧田和蛙塘,—下肥了嘉陵江下濕布谷咕咕的啼聲,雨是潮潮潤潤的音樂下在渴望的唇上,舔舔那冷雨。

    因為雨是最最原始的敲打樂從記憶的彼端敲起。瓦是最最低沉的樂器灰蒙蒙的溫柔覆蓋著聽雨的人,瓦是音樂的雨傘撐起。但不久公寓的時代來臨,臺北你怎么一下子長高了,瓦的音樂竟成了絕響。千片萬片的瓦翩翩,美麗的灰蝴蝶紛紛飛走,飛入歷史的記憶。現在雨下下來下在水泥的屋頂和墻上,沒有音韻的雨季。樹也砍光了,那月桂,那楓樹,柳樹和擎天的巨椰,雨來的時候不再有叢葉嘈嘈切切,閃動濕濕的綠光迎接。鳥聲減了啾啾,蛙聲沉了咯咯,秋天的蟲吟也減了唧唧。七十年代的臺北不需要這些,一個樂隊接一個樂隊便遣散盡了。要聽雞叫,只有去詩經的韻里找。現在只剩下一張黑白片,黑白的默片。

    正如馬車的時代去后,三輪車的伕工也去了。曾經在雨夜,三輪車的油布篷掛起,送她回家的途中,篷里的世界小得多可愛,而且躲在警察的轄區以外,雨衣的口袋越大越好,盛得下他的一只手里握一只纖纖的手。臺灣的雨季這么長,該有人發明一種寬寬的雙人雨衣,一人分穿一只袖子此外的部分就不必分得太苛。而無論工業如何發達,一時似乎還廢不了雨傘。只要雨不傾盆,風不橫吹,撐一把傘在雨中仍不失古典的韻味。任雨點敲在黑布傘或是透明的塑膠傘上,將骨柄一旋,雨珠向四方噴濺,傘緣便旋成了一圈飛檐。跟女友共一把雨傘,該是一種美麗的合作吧。最好是初戀,有點興奮,更有點不好意思,若即若離之間,雨不妨下大一點。真正初戀,恐怕是興奮得不需要傘的,手牽手在雨中狂奔而去,把年輕的長發的肌膚交給漫天的淋淋漓漓,然后向對方的唇上頰上嘗涼涼甜甜的雨水。不過那要非常年輕且激情,同時,也只能發生在法國的新潮片里吧。

    大多數的雨傘想不會為約會張開。上班下班,上學放學,菜市來回的途中。現實的傘,灰色的星期三。握著雨傘。他聽那冷雨打在傘上。索性更冷一些就好了,他想。索性把濕濕的灰雨凍成干干爽爽的白雨,六角形的結晶體在無風的空中回回旋旋地降下來。等須眉和肩頭白盡時,伸手一拂就落了。二十五年,沒有受故鄉白雨的祝福,或許發上下一點白霜是一種變相的自我補償吧。一位英雄,經得起多少次雨季?他的額頭是水成巖削成還是火成巖?他的心底究竟有多厚的苔蘚?廈門街的雨巷走了二十年與記憶等長,—座無瓦的公寓在巷底等他,一盞燈在樓上的雨窗子里,等他回去,向晚餐后的沉思冥想去整理青苔深深的記憶。

    前塵隔海。古屋不再。聽聽那冷雨。

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